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Research Article Volume 8 Issue 2
Optimizing physical performance in climbing: specific strength training strategies across body regions
Zahi Andraos, Edgard Kazzi, Lea Farhat
Laboratories des 3 S, Faculty of Sport Sciences, Antonine University, Lebanon
Received: August 13, 2025 | Published: August 19, 2025
Citation: Kazzi E, Farhat L, Andraos Z. Optimizing physical performance in climbing: specific strength training strategies across body regions. MOJ Sports Med 2025;8(2):50‒56. DOI: 10.15406/mojsm.2025.08.00183
Abstract
Background: Climbing
performance is determined by a complex interplay of technical skill, tactical
decision-making, psychological factors, and physical capabilities. Among these,
strength—particularly in the fingers, forearms, upper body, core, and lower
body—plays a decisive role in a climber’s ability to execute difficult
sequences and sustain effort over varied terrain.
Objective: This narrative
review aims to synthesize recent scientific literature (2015–2025) and applied
coaching knowledge to provide climbers and coaches with evidence-based,
body-region-specific strength training guidelines. The goal is to make
scientific insights accessible and actionable for athletes across climbing
disciplines, including bouldering, sport climbing, and alpine routes.
Methods: Literature was
retrieved from PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Google Scholar using
targeted search terms related to climbing, strength development, and
periodization. Studies meeting inclusion criteria addressed physical strength
or conditioning interventions in human climbers, were published in
peer-reviewed journals from 2015 onward and were available in English. Findings
were synthesized with expert coaching practices to ensure practical
applicability.
Results: Across climbing
disciplines, maximal and endurance finger strength emerged as the strongest
performance predictors. Effective methods include hang board protocols for
maximal force and endurance repeaters, weighted pull-ups for pulling strength,
unilateral lower-body exercises for stability and drive, and core stabilization
drills for movement control. Periodized training integrating climbing-specific
and general strength work was consistently superior to unstructured programs.
Conclusion: Strength training
tailored to the unique demands of climbing—targeting each major body area,
applied progressively, and periodized over the training year—can significantly
enhance performance while reducing injury risk. Translating scientific evidence
into accessible guidelines empowers climbers to train more effectively and
sustainably.
Keywords: climbing, strength training, finger strength, upper body, core stability, lower body, periodization, sport performance
©2025 Kazzi, et al. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and build upon your work non-commercially.